Auf Widersehen Apparel Internship

Greeting Friends,

Today is my last day of summer apparel Internship. I will be leaving for Kannur tomorrow,early morning. I haven't packed yet. 14 weeks just passed, didn't even realized. 

Few of my friends and acquaintances were quite curious about my awkward choice of blog title "my vantage point of creche". My sis says that it doesn't make any sense. Very few people have read my blog. Candidly speaking I don't know how to popularize the blog. By all means it should be interesting and informative with cocktail of your view and experience. That what I tried to do this Summer. The blog name "creche" might not be so catchy, so this may be one of the reason why everybody not give a damn about this blog.

The name of this blog has got some logic. My industry didn't have any extra office corner so the HR of the industry gave the small vacant room. This room was meant to be for infant and small kid. The room is called "Creche. There was 2 broken chair and a table with working fan and exhausted fan, and I was like fucking shit Frankly speaking, initially this internship was boring but soon I gain some momentum interest in industry. Suddenly, one bright hot afternoon I came up with writing blog while sitting in creche. 

I learned lots of stuff here. The worker, supervisors and production manager were very hard working and this really kept motivating me. I was quite interested in I.E department as it was more technical. Sumit sir is I.E head and our mentor. He was very cooperative. The Cutting department were too very enthusiastic. Not to forget Mr. Guruji, he helped us in tracking the style. Mr. Sonu the in charge of store department helped us in knowing all whereabouts about fabric storage. 

I also went to head office which is thrice large as my industry. People here were in too much rush and they have very little time for us. The IT department, ERP team were not willing to share any view about the software. Albeit, I managed to complete that questionnaire.  Same problem was with plant layout team. Nevertheless all respect to their confidentiality. May they live long & Prosper. 

The all hullabaloo of confidentiality these people make really makes me wonder. Even though I assured them that this was just for educational purpose, even merchandising department were not willing to share the improved and improvised rectification in style. I sincerely like to remind these folks that this is knowledge society, a transparent candid system is what we should believe in. My production floor unit of Noida, sector 59 were overall very supportive. They provided and even assisted me in many working paradigm. Also I would like to thanks our Production manager Mr Deepak Juneja for granting all permission in speedy and transparent manner. He is good leader who involves himself in team. 

I loved doing internship here with my friend Akash. I have much to say but gotta go as it's getting late and tomorrow I have to catch train early morning. This section of my blog ain't finished yet. I will share some of my ideas and thought in my upcoming blogs, which I wrote in my diary during my Internship time in Creche, I came with some thought provoking idea here henceforth that's my vantage point-- Creche!  B.L International , you will be missed. Adieu!! Auf Widersehen!!

B.L International sector 59

Letter to Heyde!

Greetings Friend,

Few weeks back I had great opportunity to chat with Mr Victor Heyde. If you would be wondering, what am I talking about then let me tell you he is the son of Mr. G.C.C Heyde, a great thinker the world has ever seen. He revolutionized the Industrial Engineering. He invented the simple PMTS tool called "MODAPTS."
First let me tell you that how we came to know each other, although I didn't had privilege of any tete-a-tete with him but had couple of good exchange of mails. One day I was randomly googling about the application of Modapts. I sent couple of query about its usage in Apparel Industry. I got reply within few days from Mr. Heyde. He suggested me about some books on Modapts which I can get from gleebooks.com. He worked more as administrator than practitioner. Till now everything seem normal to me until the surname Heyde struck my head. I just asked him that if by any chance you are kin of Mr. G.C.C Heyde. Here are some of the excerpts from the E-mail and this was his reply.......

Hello Rajesh,

Yes, I am the son of GC (Chris) Heyde. He has passed away and I like to support his work."

Best regards,
Victor von der Heyde

GCC Heyde(Father)

Victor von Heyde(Son)

It was merely coincidence that I happened to chat with junior Heyde. Later I just did stalking on Facebook page of Mr. Heyde, which is immoral things to do for some people, but I did it and guilty, but hell yeah It was worthy and I was flabbergasted to see his page. He has some connection with Bihar. He has been involved in Buddhist practice since the mid 1970s and has spent over a year in silent retreats. He studied with a wide range of teachers overseas (India, Nepal, US, UK) and in Australia and these included Insight Meditation, Zen, and non-aligned teachers. He has taken dharma teaching roles since the early 1990s and has been leading yatras since they started in Australia in 2006. He has a particular interest in helping people understand the different types of meditation so that they're in a position to choose what works for them. He's also interested how we respond to climate change and ways that Buddhist practice may influence this response. Victor worked for many years as a counselor and is chair of the Bodhgaya Development Association, a volunteer aid organisation that supports literacy and self-sufficiency programs in India.

So after couple of days I replied him :

Hi Sir,
It is really nice chatting with you. It's so good that you are supporting the work of the great GC Chris Heyde. We will always remember his contribution to this Industrial Engineering work, especially Modapts.
I am learning and applying Modapts, and found this fascinating. Most importantly it has only 21 basic elements which makes it less cumbersome and simple.

Currently, I am doing Industrial Internship through my college in Delhi. I am pursuing BF.Tech(or Apparel Production) course from National Institute of Fashion Technology. In future I would like to carry on Heyde's work in Apparel Industry, and I am sure I will do well with his blessing.

I also found your profile in Facebook. I was really surprised you came to Bodh Gaya. Basically, I am also from Patna, Bihar.

Best Regards
Rajesh Kumar


This was his reply:

Hello Rajesh,

Good to hear that you find MODAPTS useful. It's used a lot in the USA but so far not much in India.
And interesting that you come from Bihar. Here in Australia we have to remind people that many parts of India are still very poor. What comes on the news here is often India's Premier League and stories about the richer side of India.
Good luck with your study.

Best wishes,
Victor


It was really awesome time exchanging some emails with Victor. The book he suggested is not published or sold in India. So I went to gleebooks website(http://www.gleebooks.com.au/) as suggested by him. Unfortunately it was out of stock, but more unfortunately it was costly around 66$, which around INR 4000. This is quite inflexible though with day-today rise in value INR against dollar. So finally I decided not to think further, rather learn by myself. Well I don't like to brag myself but I'm kind of auto-dictact. So after all my toil, tears and sweat I finally managed to learn Modapts and Modsew all by myself.


Trouble with MODSEW

Initially, I had big problem with Modsew formula. I couldn't figure out the simple way of applying on the sewing floor. I knew about GSD sewing formula which is bit complex. I combined Modapts to GSD sewing formula. I pre-assumed that this gonna work but blame my insatiable curiosity and I went into deep. I contacted many Modapts experts. I didn't got any reply whatsoever. Then on 1st of August, Greg Corbitt replied my mails about Modsew formula. It's impossible to extract the information on Modsew formula from google, till date. Try it!!
So I compared the GSD sewing formula and Modsew. The result was almost same. But when you have easier calculation of Modsew then why to go for GSD. And, finally I was able to figure this out.

PRODUCTION BALANCING

Greeting friends!

I am digressing a bit from Modapts to a very critical topic "Production Balancing".

Production Balancing is a major issue in the Apparel Manufacturing Industry. The Production manager and supervisor can face many problems like production targets not being met, operator sitting idle, piling up of work in progress and no work in progress.

Every operator has different ability to perform. Not everyone can perform in similar manner and not all operation is similar to each other. The machine might be different; the methodology to do the task may be different. It’s just analogous to Water tank.

Each tank has its own inlet and outlet valves. The rate of flow of water from each valve may be different. So we have to ensure that input is equal to output on all operations and work sections and all operations and operators have the opportunity to work to their maximum potential. Each operation has a different S.A.M and S.M.V. Many operators work inconsistently and intermittent entourage with machines breakdown or quality problem, absence etc.

The question arises that what should be made accountable for determining the potential performance of the Operator for that particular operation and to find out that how compatible the operator is with machines like SNLS, DNLS, Overlock, Flat Lock etc.

Potential Performance

The line is set for particular style. The operator is assigned accordingly by supervisor based on his intuition and experience. One can easily see the paramount inconsistency in doing that particular task after all they are human. The I.E will take random 5 or more observation for each operator doing particular operation, depending upon the pre-requisite of accuracy level. Then Average Cycle time will be determined. Make sure that the reading should be without adding any such allowances. The OB S.A.M is predetermined time done by IE before the start of the production. It is determined through various method study like General Sewing Data (G.S.D), MODAPTS© etc. The Personal Fatigue Delay (PFD) Allowances is added depending upon the company policy. In general 15% is taken as PFD allowances. So Basic Time = SMV – PFDs Allowances(also subtract any other allowances like Bundling allowance if required)

Potential Performance = (Basic Time/Average cycle time)*100

Let’s take a real situation which I came through in production floor of the B.L International. I was doing 

Time study on the style name: Resta leo sl top. An operator doing the critical operation like Zipper attaches.

SMV for Zipper Attach	= 0.8 minutes
PFD allowance	= 15%
Basic Time( Company policy for allowances is 15%)	= SMV- Allowances
Basic time	=0.8 – 0.8*15% =0.68 minutes
Average Cycle time by Direct Time Study: Here I randomly took 5 observations. No need to add any allowances	=1.60 minutes
Potential Performance	= (Basic Time/Average cycle Time)*100
Potential Performance	= (0.68/1.60)*100 =42.5%

This shows that attaching zipper is difficult task for this operator.

Ideally at 100% output per hour an operator should produce= 60/0.8 = 75 pieces

But with 42.5% he will be able to produce= 75*42.5% = 33 pieces per hour

Point to be noted: 
Never ever rely on the past historical information because if you do that then you are creating more quandary situation. The style is different so the circumstance will be different lead to the entirely different ramification at certain. The situation would be diddly-squat just as unbeknownst to you.  So Production manager or supervisor should check the status quo of the operator performance and then come to decision about the performance level to be used.

The cycle time and potential performance is absolutely peremptory in effective line balancing and setting up of modular manufacturing teams. Supervisor works on their intuition and experience. He knows about the dexterity of the operator. What if operator changes section or supervisor change section or he leaves the Line? People do forget things and one should not rely upon the operator to tell you what he/she can do. Absenteeism is also major problem and supervisor should prepare for all contingencies. A set of potential performance build a chart called as “SKILLs MATRIX”.  A skill matrix gives a basic picture about the particular operators doing particular job. By looking at the chart supervisor can see the number of operators that can do an operation and also find out the floaters (hyper specialty operator). The skill Matrix should be kept up to date as the performance may change in future.

MODAPTS and its elements

Greeting Friends!

MODAPTS© is one of the PTS system which is a registered trademark of the International MODAPTS Association, Inc. MODAPTS© has great upper hand over GSD as I have
mentioned clearly in my previous blog. It is a third Generation of Predetermined Times.

A Paradigm Shift in Pre-determined Motion & Time Study: MODAPTS

Hi Friends,

Today I will talk about Modapts. It is a very different from conventional time study.

MODAPTS stands for Modular Arrangement of Predetermined Time Standards. It is a system to analyse work performance by monitoring the operator’s movements in the workplace. MODAPTS records the workplace or monitors the operator’s movements in the workplace in order to:

·         Simplify and facilitate work in the workplace,

·         Detect and eliminate idle motions,

·         Analyse the performance of the MODAPTS method

The MODAPTS method allows more qualitative and efficient work as well as to achieve production quotas, and it assists in reducing risks of injuries, stresses and hard work. The worker becomes more satisfied with his work because work accomplishes his goal, which is the execution of the task in quantity and quality, achieving a higher personal income.

Everything got some reason for something. There is some standard procedure which has to be followed before any initiation of production. For instance, the Garment Industry in India follows GSD for generating Operational Breakdown data. Based on this pay performance is determined and discreet standard is created.   In India very few people have awareness about the MODAPTS.

Comparison Analysis between MODAPTS© & GSD

S.No.	MODAPTS©	GSD
1	It is simple PTS tool.	It is complex labyrinth PTS tool.
2	Any autodidact layman can learn it easily by himself.	Proper training under expert is required to learn.
3	It highlights ergonomic concerns quite apprehensively and conveniently.	Being so baroque in nature, ergonomic portion is not easily comprehended.
4	It encourages method improvements.	Method improvement gets neglected.
5	It has just 21 basic elements.	It has more than 400 elements.
6	It was developed by GC Heyde, an Australian.	It was developed by Methods Workshop Limited of Lancashire, England.
7	It is independent tool.	It is derived from MTM core data.
8	It takes lesser time to generate time study data.	It takes bit longer time.
9	It is concise study.	It is detailed study.
10	MODAPTS is applied in many areas that includes janitor, Clerical and Warehouse.	GSD specially focused only on sewn products.

You can expect an immediate improvement in your operational productivity, because MODAPTS is "solutions" oriented. All motions required of a person to complete a task are recorded and analyzed for methods improvement. MODAPTS is unusually sensitive to improving methods because of its unique coding system.

MODAPTS takes the stopwatch out of the calculation of production standards, improving employee relations while adding objectivity to standards. No longer will you discuss how fast a particular person is working during a time study, because MODAPTS requires no performance rating.

 In my next blog I will talk about the elements of the Modapts. I hope you will find it more convincing. It is already being used my many Industrial Engineers in various Industries like Automobile manufacturer like Ford and Food corporation in Australia and many more. 

The Insatiable Curiosity about Work and Time Study

A generic term for those techniques, particularly method study and work measurement, which are used in the examination of human work in all its contexts, and which lead systematically to the investigation of all the factors which affect the efficiency and economy of the situation being reviewed, in order to effect improvement.

Work Study is the systematic study of an operation or process to ensure the best possible use of the human and material resources available. The prime aim is to improve productivity. The application of Work Study to a department or company is made to improve the existing method of operation, as a result change will occur which will affect all personnel - irrespective of status.

Work study objectives 

The object of applying Work Study is to obtain the optimum use of the human and material resources, which are available to it. The benefits may stem from improvements in one or more of the following:

• Increased production and productivity

• Reduced costs - labor, material, overheads

• Improvement of conditions, which involve an element of excessive fatigue or danger

• Improved quality     

• Better control of costs

Work study benefits

Work Study can considerably increase productivity. People can benefit from, less tiring work, better working conditions and, because an efficient company can meet competition successfully, better employment prospects. Work Study raises efficiency by RE-ORGANISATION OF WORK. It therefore need involve little or no capital expenditure. Yet, where such an outlay is desirable, Work Study can ensure that it is spent to the best advantage. Work Study is systematic; its procedures are designed to ensure that no factors affecting the situation are overlooked.

In the series of all catechism one may really ask about need for Work and Time study standard data at first place. For this we have to start from beginning. Before commencement of any production a series of work goes on. First of all style Buyer sends its sample to production unit. The Industrial Engineer picks the brains of the sample and does the Operation Breakdown. It is done in order to find the Standard allowance Minute (SAM) and number and types of machines, types of folder requirement etc. In short we can say that a standard and target is set.

How the OB SAM is calculated?

OB SAM is calculated with the help of Predetermined Time Study method. Apparel Industry generally follows General Sewing Data (GSD). It is derived from MTM-1 and MTM-2. It has many elements. Based on these elements the work and time study for each operation is done by I.E department. Then depending upon Industry policy of PFDs allowances is added for each operation and final OB is determined. In general Personal Fatigue Delay (PFD) is taken as 15%.

What is the significance of OB?

This is very interesting question, or rather one may ask rhetorically that how the hell OB plays a critical role in Worker-Management relationship. It plays important role in setting up pay performance for operator. OB SAM is also required for calculating operator’s performance.

For instance let’s take some hypothetical situation. An operator ‘X’ is assigned to do attach a main label in unfinished garment. There are 1000 pieces in a day and Standard Minute Value (SMV) of this operation is predetermined as 0.30. Also, he attends for 480 minutes. But in actual he waits 60 minutes for work and also there is 20 minutes machine breakdown.

So, SMV produced = 1000 x 0.30 = 300

Total work disruption= (60+20) minutes = 80 minutes

And Time ‘on standard’= Time attended-Time wasted

                                      = (480 – 80) minutes

                                      = (400) minutes

Operator’s Performance = (SMV produced/Time on standard) x 100

In this Case,   (300/400) x 100 = 75%

Many will question the accountability of OB SAM because of being so ambiguous sometime. The Labour Association might create the hell-bent of a situation because they would like to make this more realistic and keeping in mind that operators are human being. Henceforth PFD is included in every operation. But the questions also arises that is it enough? The Labour Union will always verify its ambiguity. GSD is sophisticated and cumbersome tool to determine the Work and Time Study. The novice cannot apply it without proper training. Supervisor is a voice of operators. So he should be learning this technical stuff. But in current scenario it is nearly impossible for any company to invest in training. There are 2 reasons for that:

1.  It takes huge amount of time in learning at least 6 months.
2. Huge invested and dedication required learning Work and Time study.

So here what MODAPTS© can change the whole scenario in any industry. It is easy to learn and easy to apply. People with minimum qualification or basic High School education can apply them. You don’t have to be pedantic for that. It has been proven that result of OB SAM by both GSD and MODAPTS will remain almost equal.

I will talk about Modapts in my upcoming blog, so brace yourself.

Identifying the Shrinkage % of the Sample Fabric

Standard Shrinkage Measurement Cardboard

 

A weighting machine 

How much doe it Weigh!

A square cardboard of 50 square centimeter

A fabric sample for any particular style is brought. It is then kept on the table.

Fabric Sample

The shrinkage cardboard is brought and kept on the fabric sample.

Cardboard is placed somewhere away from the selvedge of the fabric.

According to the grain-line of the fabric that cardboard is diligently placed.

Then, it is marked at all 4 point by using permanent marker.

Washing Machine

Then the sample is washed, colloquially in industry we call this as CPL.

Tumble Dry

After drying the sample (Tumble Dry) the shrinkage % is calculated.

Then, the sample is re-measured to see if there is any decrease or increase in the dimension of the sample.

shrinkage% = (a-b) x 100/a

Where b is new dimension of fabric & a is the old dimension of fabric.

For instance, hypothetically let say a=50 cm and after washing and drying b=48 cm then

shrinkage%= (50-48) x 100 /50

= 4 %

+or -4% is acceptable in Industry.

This process is done in both length and width dimension.

If there are any discrepancies in measurement then it is notified to the Production Manager.

Sometime the fabric can also increase in dimension .

Based on the shrinkage or expansion of the fabric the pattern is re-adjusted, otherwise this will jeopardize whole production system.